Head Brewmaster Michael Pawley held a glass underneath the Lukr faucet imported from the Czech Republic. He moved a lever and a dark liquid streamed down, taking up 10% of the glass. The foam occupied the rest, for a better mouthfeel and less bitterness. He handed me the beer across a low countertop designed to give customers a feeling of intimacy.
Pawley’s goal: To create a European bar experience at the new Sojourn Fermentory in Suffolk’s Bridgeport community. He also wants to serve fresh, high quality food that isn’t complicated.
The name of the business, he said, came from words often attributed to Plato: “Life is but a Sojourn. Enjoy the best of it.” We stay only for a time.
I was there for an early sneak peek at the 9,200-square-foot place (including the outdoor beer garden), which is owned by Pawley, Jinson Chan and Scott Osborne, who all have a passion for brewing.
Pawley spent two months in Austria learning how to brew European lagers. He also worked at Commonwealth Brewing Co. and Back Bay Brew House Farmhouse, both in Virginia Beach. Chan has an engineering background and co-owns High Side, a modern craft beer bar in Fairfax. Osborne, pastor at Redemption Church, has an appreciation for craft beer and the process of making it. He and Pawley became friends and shared a dream of opening a brewery with world-class beers.
The brewery, cidery and tasting room offers European-style lagers, American ales, modern IPAs, fruited sours and barrel-aged stouts. Two of the four ciders were available when I visited.
I tried Paradise, a cider made with Pink Lady apples. It shined with a touch of sweetness and finished with a subtle dryness. I was ready for the fall season, and this put me in a fall season mood.
Sojourn also has a full kitchen run by chef Mario Owens, whom Pawley calls “the flavor guy.” The menu features Roman-style pizza with house-made dough that’s been fermented for 72 hours.
While I waited to sample the cheese, pepperoni and meat lovers pizzas, I sat at one of the two picnic tables in the family-friendly area. A stage for kiddy play was in the corner near a Lego station. I could imagine the theatrics that would take place as people enjoyed their food. I smiled.
The pizzas arrived hot and looked appetizing. I couldn’t pick a favorite. The magic was in the dough. Airy. Fresh. Magnificent.
The spot also serves small plates such as tasty truffle fries and karaage (Japanese fried chicken bites) with sweet chili sauce.
At the bar, I admired the triangle indention in the wall where the 16 taps reside. What a sleek design. I sipped the Midnight (dark lager) and Czech Pils (light lager). Both were foamy, creamy and refreshing on this warm Thursday afternoon.
I looked forward to returning with friends and staying awhile.
Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com; on X, @gibsonrekaya
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If you go
Where: 1400 Bridgeport Way, Suffolk
Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. Monday, closed Tuesday, noon to 9 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, noon to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday
Prices: $4 to $8, beer and cider; $12 to $18, pizza
Details: 757-922-9909; sojournfermentory.com
